Sexy and Smoldering
The beauty world lost a true revolutionary when Kevyn Aucoin passed away years ago. If you don’t know his amazing story of love, perseverance and sheer talent, it is one that will leave you stronger and misty-eyed. Having worked lovingly on the faces of such beauties as Julia Roberts (above), Tina Turner, Christy Turlington, and Vanessa Williams, learning his tips and tricks keep you fabulous. With his books, Face Forward and Making Faces, which are staples in my library, he introduced a new type of beauty to the world and industry.
I have had a lot of people ask me how I do my “smoky eye” look or facial highlighting and bronzing. I learned it all from Kevyn. Luckily enough, after his passing, his site is still maintained and his line of cosmetic tools are for sale.
Here are the instructions for the “smoky eye” from Kevyn’s site:
Eyes are an area where you can really have fun and be quite creative. Unlike the lips, which can be altered only slightly in shape before they start to look awkward, the eyes have no real set limitations. Each shape you create, whether with shadows, pencils, or liner, can take you into completely different realms. From “smoky” to “defining,” subtle to high-drama, depending on the face you chose, the eye area is integral for a successful look.
To create the “alluring” eyeshadow shape shown on Julia Roberts, you’ll need the following tools and products:
concealer and face powder
powder and sponge
black eyeliner pencil
neutral beige powder eyeshadow
sponge tip applicator
eyelash curler and black mascara
apricot blush and blush brush
neutral lip color and lip brush
If possible, you should remove contact lenses before working on the eye area and put them back in when you’re done.
Use concealer sparingly, followed by loose powder applied with a powder sponge (not velour). (Optional: leave a little powder under the eye, to catch falling shadow.)
Apply black eyeliner pencil to upper and lower inner eye area. Smudge pencil gently into the lashes.
Using either a sponge-type applicator or shadow brush (your choice), blend pencil into smoky circle around eye.
First, using the eyeshadow applicator, softly retrace penciled area (from lashes outward) with black eyeshadow. The idea is to smoke up the area. Remember to use as little as possible to get the best results.
Next, using the eyeshadow brush, arc into the crease of the eyelid, under and softly outward from the corner. (Concentrate the shadow on the outer half of the eye.)
Use beige powder eyeshadow to highlight browbone and eyelid. (You can even sweep a little bit slightly down the side of the nose and under the eye.)
Curl the lashes and apply black mascara.
Finally, fill in the mouth (using a lip brush) with neutral lip color (in Julia’s case, for this photo, no lip pencil outline was necessary), and dust the cheeks with apricot blush.
Julia’s brows were bleached. (This is always optional, but see how it, with the pale mouth, softens and affects the overall balance of the face.)
Rest in peace, Kevyn…you are missed, but not forgotten!